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Thread: 1997 Eagle Talon fuel problem, I think

  1. #1
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    Default 1997 Eagle Talon fuel problem, I think

    I have a 1997 Eagle Talon 2.0 Liter DOHC engine. It will not start after it sets a while. It loses its fuel pressure at the fuel rail up by injectors. I replaced the fuel filter and have plenty of pressure and volume while engine is running. I wonder if there is suppost to be a check value some where in the line or fuel pump. I have to turn engine over for about 1 to 1 1/2 minutes before the engine will fire. After I get it running, it runs great.
    I have since replaced the fuel pump thinking check value might be bad. No change. I have the injectors incerded into fuel rail setting on work bench filled with fuel. The injectors are on cardboard. No signs of leakage yet. Where is/ and is there a fuel pressure regulator? Could it be leaking back? Thanks

  2. #2
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    rickluc - Maybe it's really not a fuel problem. Whats the compression at. It could just be the engine has some wear and tear on it. To rule out the possibility of a fuel problem you should check the fuel pressure (with a gauge) and see if it builds up when you turn the key on.

  3. #3
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    Thanks, THE FUEL RAIL HAS A SCHRADER VALUE IN THE ONE END AWAY FROM THE FUEL SUPPLY LINE. i CAN HAVE THE CAR RUNNING AND PUSH IN ON THE VALUE AND A LOT OF FUEL SQUIRTS OUT. i SHUT IT OFF AND WAIT ABOUT 1 MINUTE AND PUSH IN ON THE VALUE AND THE RAIL PRESSURE IS GONE. SO i THINK THERE IS PLENTY OF FUEL PRESSURE BECAUSE OF THIS AND ALSO THE CAR RUNS PRETTY GOOD WHEN i GET IT STARTED. THERES A CHECK VALUE (THERES A HOSE COMING OFF OF THIS VALUE GOING UP TO TANK FOR A RETURN FUEL FLOW) ON TOP OF THE BANJO FITTING THAT THE FUEL SUPPLY LINE AT THE FUEL FILTER FASTENS TO. COULD THIS BE LEAKING PAST AND LETTING FUEL RUN BACK IN TANK? THANKS

  4. #4
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    I got the fuel pressure regulator off, the one I talked about in last post. Can put pressure and/or vacuum on either opening and have no leaks. ? Thanks

  5. #5
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    Yes, it's possible. It would be a good idea to hook up a pressure gauge to the Schrader valve on the fuel rail to see how quickly the pressure builds up (or doesn't). Pushing on the valve core and letting fuel spray all over the place really isn't the safe way to do it, and you don't know if the pressure is within specs.

  6. #6
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    Hooked pressure gauge to fuel rail. I turn key on and hear fuel pump run for approx. 2 to 3 seconds, is that normal? What causes the fuel pump to time out after 2 to 3 seconds, posiblly the fuel relay or the MFI, or should the fuel pump run all the time the key switch is on? I ran the test procedure for the FPR and MFI, and both tested OK. The fuel regulator is back on the fuel filter connection with a hose going from it back into the fuel tank.
    Back to the fuel pressure. I have installed a new fuel pump and a new set of injectors and tessted the fuel pressure regulator. I can cycle the key switch on and off for 2 or 3 times to get the fuel rail pressure up to 60 lbs. and the car will start and run. While the car is running the fuel pressure will stay at 60 lbs. Shut off the engine for about 10 minutes and the pressure has fallen to 50 lbs. After about an hour the pressure has leaked all off. If I turn the ignition key on again the pressure has built back up to 60 lbs. Let the car set for 3 or 4 days and I have to cycle the key swicth again for 2 or 3 times to get the pressure back up to 60 lbs. What goes?
    I did the key test for engine codes and come up with the following codes; 12, 42, 42, 43, and 55. The manual does tell me what codes 12 and 55 stands for.
    I couldn't get the IAT sensor to be in the manuals specs. So I'm changing it. Any other ideals? The VIN serial number for the engine is "Y".
    Thanks

  7. #7
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    Jan 2009
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    Back again

    I ran a Genysis test on the car and came up with these two codes

    P0113 and P0301B

    How do you test a spark plug?

    Thanks

  8. #8
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    Asking about codes 12 and 55 again. These codes came up when I did the key on and off cycle. Does show in Haynes manual. Any ideals. I changed the IAT sensor and light in dash came back on again. Any other ideals? Thanks

  9. #9
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    Hey,

    Code 12 = Battery power disconnected since last power-down, or it could mean a problem with an ABS wheel speed sensor/circuit.

    Code 55 = Front passenger's airbag module system problem.

    Spark plugs are tested by substituting the plug in question with a new spark plug, unless you can find someone with a spark plug tester. Some shops used to be equipped with these, but I doubt if you could find one now.

    The fuel pump should only run for a couple of seconds when you turn on the key, unless the engine is cranking, in which case it should run as long as the engine is cranking (and obviously must continue to run once the engine has started).

  10. #10
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    Thanks for the answers. I wasn't aware, but makes perfect since, fuel pump running while cranking engine. I know on Ford Pickups the fuel pump runs for only a few seconds after turning on ignition. So what causes the pump to run for only a few seconds on this car? The Powertrain box? Or is the fuel pump and/or the MFI relay a timed relay?
    I finally got car running great, knock on wood. No more codes with the Genisys tester. Still get codes 12 and 55 with ignition key test.
    I changed the fuel filter, fuel pump, injectors, IAT sensor, spark plugs, and lastly plug wires. I feel all was needed except for the fuel pump. I put the fuel pump on a vaccum/pressure tester and it tested OK. I had all ready bought the fuel pump and it was so easy to get to. Oh well, thats a do it your selfer!!! Probably would have spend the same if I toke it to a garage.
    Thanks again for the suggestions and help.

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