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View Full Version : Chrysler New Yorker 89' fuel pump is on when key is off



chryslerguy
02-11-2010, 10:46 PM
My fuel pump stays on when key is off. and no current to coil. Looked for shorts to find none so far. Had this problem last year. Went thru all electric wires I had access to find no bare wire(shorts). I retaped back together and it started and ran normal again. Now I have the same problem. When I turn the ignition key, on the second stage of turning the key, the fuel pump turns off. Turn back to off and fuel pump goes back on. Still won't start, no electric current getting to coil. Any suggestions please.

fast8030
02-12-2010, 04:22 AM
the fuel pump relay iwent bad and it needs to be replaced. mine did the same thing when it first happened i started to look under the hood at the relay box for the relay and i took it out got a ride and replaced it.it is a simple fix if you dont hear it come on when you turn the key befor starting up the pump is bad do the change fast because a burnt out pump with a full tank is kind of a pain in the neck

Barry
02-12-2010, 04:27 AM
Did you try and replace your ASD relay yet? Located in the relay box under hood. We're having the same problem with spark issues.

chryslerguy
02-12-2010, 05:11 PM
Thank you for the info. I do not know where the fuel pump relay is. I can not find it in the Haynes manual I have.

admin
02-12-2010, 10:46 PM
Hi chryslerguy,

The ASD relay controls the fuel pump. It's located under the hood, along the left (driver's side) inner fender panel, forward of the strut tower. There are three relays mounted to the inner fender panel; the ASD relay is the one closest to the front of the car.

chryslerguy
02-13-2010, 06:49 PM
Thank you admin,
I found it and replaced the relay. That solved the fuel pump always on problem. I still do not have spark. I have replaced coil, but still no spark. any suggestions please.

fast8030
02-14-2010, 05:06 AM
does your new yorker still have the cap and rotor and coil pack set up? if you replaced the coil i would replaace the cap and rotor as well. in not there is a fuseable link in the relaybox that controlles the spark. also check the battery as well when i replaced my fuel pump relay i ended up replacing my battery do to the drain from the pump runnin

chryslerguy
02-14-2010, 06:09 AM
Hi fast8030, yes I do have a cap and rotor. Checked that today. cap looks good. rotor looks like it should be changed. I will change that out tomrrow. coil is separate from all. My other idea was there is a -Ignition Control Module- in distributor. Had to replace one on a car I ahd in the past when sudden loss of spark.
My engine is 3.0 V6 fuel injected.

chryslerguy
02-16-2010, 12:43 AM
I replaced the cap and rotor. still no spark. When I reconnect the positive cable there is a clicking noise coming from a relay on the right side on car. Is this normal. I checked and found black marks on the inside of one of them . Is this from shorting out. This relay has 2 relay box on one bracket. I am replacing both tomorrow. I have even ran a wire direct from battery to coil and still no spark. I find this unusal. The fuseable link that controls spark, I can not find. Is the double relay that I am replacing the fuseable link?

chryslerguy
02-16-2010, 01:09 AM
OK dah, looked in Haynes manual and found what a fusable link is. I have checked these and many wires looking for a short at beginning of problem. Can not find a problem/short so far. Raplace that relay and look again tomorrow.

chryslerguy
02-16-2010, 06:37 PM
I changed the double relay. Still no spark. Checked fuseable links and found no visible breaks.

chryslerguy
02-18-2010, 10:29 PM
I checked on more relay today which I thought was ok. It had condensation and ice in it. Checked it on ohm meter and had no reading. Had to order it and will replace tomorrow. I do not know what this relay is for. This relay has 3 blue/black, 2 of which connect to one post, 1 blue/red, and 1 gray. Only thing I could trace down from Haynes manual is from ignition. In wire cavity of ignition switch - dark blue is for ignition run/start.

admin
02-19-2010, 06:56 PM
Hi chryslerguy,
It sounds like you are going to replace the starter relay as well.

chryslerguy
02-20-2010, 05:18 PM
thanx admin, replaced relay and still no spark. I have narrowed done to ignition control module in distributor or the 90 way SBEC. But why no spark if run a jumper from pos. battery terminal to positive coil terminal.

chryslerguy
02-20-2010, 10:11 PM
Today saturday I made a jumper wire. I put it on the negative terminal coil and clip the other to the body. And the car started right up. Let run 10 minutes and unclipped the ground while running to see if it would stop. Yes it did stop. When I disconnected the wire from the body it produced spark. Reconnected jumper ground and now there is no spark/restart. Did I now short something out. Seems there is a short somewhere in the ground to the coil. My ground wire is black/white and positive is green/black. Rechecked coil and relays with ohm meter and they are ok. Again looked for shorts/open wires-no find any. Beside myself in Michigan.

chryslerguy
02-21-2010, 08:59 PM
Checked for open wires today-sun. Took all sheath off and follwed the negative and connects to power module. no open wires. as it states in Haynes manual. took power module connection off and I see no bad prongs or burn marks. still no spark.

chryslerguy
02-22-2010, 10:12 PM
Today-mon. Car started right up. No jumper. Car ran for 10 minutes and stalled out. Restart-starts up. Only will run from 1 to 10 minutes. Put a new fuel filter on. Still have same problem. Car will start-run a few minutes-then will stall out.

chryslerguy
02-27-2010, 02:28 AM
Found 6 way wire connector going to alternator. Full of grime and liquid. Took apart and cleaned and dried out. Started car and ran till it overheated. The auto cooling radiator fan did not come on. Did the coolant temperature sensor test. Did not come on. Did the Jumper fan to battery and fan came on. Replaced radiator fan relay. The car did stall/dog out one time after 15 minutes of running. The fuel pump has a very distinct loud humming noise. I believe my fuel pump is bad/going out. I had to replace my gas tank and fuel pump last spring. Bought whole unit at junkyard. So the current fuel pump is just about as old as my car is. The collector and brushes inside the fuel pump might(seem) to be worn out. One check to see if fuel pump is going out(when car does not start) is have one knock it with a hammer while one tries to start car. When you hit(knock) the fuel pump, a shock creates a good contact and the pump starts working for a said period of time. I think this is why my car would only run for a period of time. Also the loud humming noise is probably only obvious that pump is going out/bad. The question still is open as why/what shorted my relays out to begin with. Dirty 6 way connector, open wire condition, faulty SMEC. Will replace fuel pump and look for open wires while under car. Also believe I should replace this 6 way connector that I cleaned, need to research and find out what this is called, wires are purple/white, white/blue, tan, doulble orange, blue, and yellow or tan.