View Full Version : 2003 Hyundai Accent removing driveaxle from hub

10-12-2011, 01:42 AM
I've been referring to manual #43015 for '86-'09 models of Hyundai Accent, and have run into a problem removing the drive axle from the hub of my 2003 Accent.

Following the instructions in steps 2 and 3 I have removed the hub nut and detached the lower arm ball joint, the tie-rod, and the stabilizer bar. The next step is to
Press the driveaxle from the hub with a puller. Caption 10.4a says
If the driveaxle won't slide out of the hub easily, a puller can be used to push it out - DO NOT hammer on the end of the driveaxle to force it out!
The driveaxle did not slide out of the hub easily, so I went and rented a puller. The only thing the puller's hooks could grip was the brake rotor, so I hooked onto that. Nothing happened as I cranked the puller tighter and tighter, until part of the rotor snapped.

Am I missing something? Is there something else on a 2003 Accent that physically holds the drive axle into the hub? It seems like I'm dealing with more than rust here... Is there another method to try beyond hammering (which is advised against?), and the puller (which clearly didn't work)?


10-12-2011, 03:48 PM
Hi arrowsican,

That's unfortunate, but you should never pull against the brake disc, as the braking surface could be marred (or as in your case, broken).

The hub design on your '03 accent is different than the older setup shown in the photo (where it is possible to connect the puller to the flange of the hub). There are pullers/attachments that allow the puller to be configured to utilize the lug studs, which are secured by the wheel lug nuts.

As far as anything else holding the driveaxle in place, there's not. Since you've removed the driveaxle nut and disconnected the control arm balljoint, the steering knuckle is free to swing outward (provided the driveaxle slides out of the hub). When rust forms between the driveaxle splines and the hub splines, it can be a real bear to deal with. Use lots of penetrating oil and allow it to soak in for awhile, then try again. In some cases a sharp blow with a brass hammer might be necessary to break loose the bond (if this is done, the control arm balljoint must be connected to the steering knuckle first to prevent the knuckle from traveling inward. Also, the driveaxle has a limited amount of axial travel in the inner CV joint, so hitting the end is only intended to break the bond between the driveaxle and the hub splines, not drive it out. Once the bond is broken, you would disconnect the control arm balljoint from the steering knuckle again and press the driveaxle out with the puller). The reason we say not to hit the end of the driveaxle is pretty obvious - the end of the shaft could get mushroomed or the threads could be damaged - but sometimes when working on cars, desperate measures are required.

If you run into any more trouble, feel free to give one of our tech service reps a call at 1-800-442-9637.

11-12-2011, 08:05 PM
I finally found a way to get the axles out- I took them off with the hubs and struts still attached (as I couldn't get the hubs off of the struts either...)

The next step in the manual is to remove the starter motor. I've disconnected the wires to the starter motor, but the mounting bolts are obscured somewhere behind a mass of tubes and wires. Is it strictly necessary to remove the starter motor from the transaxle, or can I leave it on and remove them both since the wires have been removed?


11-16-2011, 03:25 PM
Yes, the starter motor has to come out. It will interfere with the flywheel and you won't be able to pull the transaxle away from the engine.

11-16-2011, 08:07 PM
Good to know. Thanks

11-17-2011, 01:58 AM
You're welcome!

Never much fun to pull a transaxle out, but it's less fun to pay someone else to do it!